April6
Last Sunday and Monday, Rus and I decided to do a tramp (trek + camp = tramp) at Banks Peninsula. We chose this trail because it is accessible to Christchurch via bus and ferry; we did not want to rent a car. Christchurch sits on an area of flat plains (known as Canterbury Plains) between the Southern Alps that run the length of the South Island and the mountains of Banks Peninsula. Banks Peninsula has a series of “fingers” that reach into the ocean and create several picturesque harbours along it (Lyttelton is one of them).
We left Darby Street around 11:00AM after a hearty breakfast, with our packs full of gear. Though the tramp can be done in one long day, we decided to bring our tent and sleeping gear and turn it into two short days. We walked down to the casino (about a kilometre away) to pick up the #28 bus to Lyttelton. Once we got to Lyttelton, we barely caught the ferry over to Diamond Harbour. It was a perfectly clear, warm day, and being on the cool, aqua water was great - all seven minutes of it. We departed the dock at Diamond Harbor and began our trek up to the top of Mount Herbert. At this point, it was a little after 1:00PM. We walked along one of the fingers and up through the woods to a small residential area, then on to a farm road. We did not bring a “topo map” (a.k.a. topography map) for this tramp since it was fairly straightforward, and Rus brought his GPS to help us find the route. Since we are new to the tramping scene, we did not know to look for the trail markers - and we simply followed a farm road that seemed to lead to the top.
The afternoon sun was positively blazing, and I quickly stripped down to my racerback tank top (and applied some serious sunscreen). There were no trees, just tufts of dry grass on this trek. Not used to carrying around so much extra weight, my pack was already feeling heavy and uncomfortable. We had barely started! About 1.5 kilometres into this tramp (which would take us from sea level to 900m in 6km of walking), we stopped at the only trees in view for a quick lunch break. I took off my awesome new hiking boots to discover some serious blisters forming on my heels and applied Band-Aids accordingly. I could deal with a little discomfort but open blisters would have proven to be a problem on the trip back down the mountain.
The next couple of hours were hot and tough - parts of the mountain were steep, and the relentless sun, the heavy packs, and sore feet made the trip less than comfortable. All the while, however, I took photos of the increasingly amazing views. As our altitude increased, we could see part of the bay, than the whole bay and several harbours, the Alps in the far distance, and the ocean on two sides - breathtaking!
We continued up the farmers’ road (which was little more than two tyre tracks worn into the grass) until we finally met up with the “real” trail. The whole time, we were in sheep- and cow-grazing territory. Several times we had to let ourselves in paddock gates to continue on our journey. Many of New Zealand’s trails go through private property at some point - and they owners do not mind! Not once did we have to worry about a shotgun-wielding farmer stalking us as we were trying to enjoy the weather and the scenery (or pee in the woods) - sweet as!
So… we continued our ascent of Mount Herbert, taking short breaks to checkout the scenery and catch our breaths. As we continued toward the summit, we passed by a few people who were going down (typically, trampers drive to the other side of the mountain, take a short climb to the summit, take pictures at the top, and descend the steep area we were attempting to ascend - hence the comments about how steadfast we were?). It is an easy one-day hike from the summit to the bottom but could easily turn into a two- or three-day hike they way we decided to go from Lyttelton. At this point, we were experiencing a bit of relief from the sun in the way of a cool ocean breeze. This inevitably made the journey easier (especially since we were being stared down by the numerous cows with which we came in contact, as if we were naked or something!) and thankfully, too, because every time we thought we reached the summit, we could look even further and see the next one - and the next one.
Finally, around 4:30PM, Rus and I decided that our feet had had enough, and it was time to stop. The problem was that we were still on the trail and had not yet reached the hut where we were supposed to spend the night. As a matter of fact, we were only about one kilometre from the summit, but we wanted to err on the side of caution regarding our blister situation.
Ultimately, we decided to pull about ten metres off the trail and found a suitable place to tent for the night. We took off our boots and put on our sandals, set up the tent, and got in to get out of the blazing sun. From there, we boiled some water for a reconstituted meal (which tasted pretty good!) and rested. A few hours later, we were able to watch the sun set and see the lights come on in Christchurch. With the sun gone, the temperature started dropping rapidly.
Eventually, it was completely dark, and we were getting sleepy, and although it was not yet 9:00PM, it was time to go to bed. We covered the packs with a pack cover and got in the tent, leaving one mesh side uncovered so I could look at the stars. A couple of cows were grazing nearby, and we could hear their occasional mooing. Other than that, it was quiet.
A few hours after we fell asleep, the wind started picking up. It was flapping the tent cover loudly, and I thought some of our gear might blow away (the wind was that strong). We got up and secured the tent cover and everything else, and got back in the tent. While we were out, we looked up to see the Milky Way in the dark, clear sky. The stars never ceases to amaze me!
Eventually, we went back to sleep, tossed and turned through the night a bit and woke up when the sun was above the horizon the next morning. We watched the light unfold across the landscape while we packed up everything for the trek back. We decided to skip the summit and head back to Christchurch.
Now knowing where the “real” trail was, we decided to follow it back all the way and discovered that walking down is just as difficult as walking up - it just goes faster. Though the landscape was the same - short green grasses, tufts of dry yellow grasses, thistles, skittish sheep and cows, paddocks, and lots of poop - we traversed through a few valleys instead of on the tops of the hills.
A few hours later, we reached the head of the trail and made our way to Diamond Harbour. We had a few minutes before the next ferry arrived, so we took off our boots and put our feet in the cold bay water - ahhh, sweet relief! The ferry took us to Lyttleton, and the bus took us back to Christchurch. Another short walk, and we were home. Showers and a nap dominated the rest of the day, and sore muscles prevailed over the next few.
Overall, an excellent first tramp; I am looking forward to the next one!