March15
Even though we did not get to swim with the dolphins, it was still an awesome afternoon on the boat. Now, our bellies were telling us it was time to eat. We stopped at a wine shop to get a bottle of Pinot Noir, and then at a seafood shack to get some seafood. We bought fresh New Zealand clams, muscles, and some Australian giant prawns (there are no prawns off Kaikoura’s coast, we were told, and they looked good). Then, I popped into the local supermarket (it was the size of a large American convenience store like Wawa) to buy butter (garlic butter, since I would have had to buy a pound of the plain stuff), a lemon, and white wine.
Back at the campsite, Rus set up the tent while I prepped the food. I cut up a red onion we brought and washed off the shellfish. I got the pots ready. Then, Rus turned on the stove, and it took minutes to get the water boiling. We boiled the seafood for a few minutes then cleared the pot to make the sauce - a little olive oil, chopped red onion, garlic butter, and white wine - yum! It smelled so good I could hardly wait! We poured the sauce over the seafood and dug in. In the meantime, I made some reconstituted vegetables (camping food). The food was fabulous!
The sun was setting, so we wanted to start the fire and clean up before darkness fell completely. Once we did this, we drank (all of the) wine by the fire and hung out until it was time to walk around the corner to take showers. There were many RVs and campers at the site, but we did not run into many people. Shortly before we turned in for the night, another couple set up a tent about 50 metres from ours, but we did not hear them at all.
After we showered, we crawled into our sleeping bags in the tent to go to sleep. I set my mobile phone alarm for 6:00AM so I could watch the sunrise. Rus seemed to sleep like a rock, but I woke up well before dawn. When we went to bed, it was cloudy, but in the middle of the night, the sky had cleared, and I could see a million bright stars, even a couple of shooting stars darting across the sky. It was awesome! With the view of the night sky and the sound of the crashing ocean waves, it was pleasant and peaceful, and I fell asleep again.
My alarm went off as planned at 6:00AM, and I dressed to watch the sunrise. It was chilly, so I had on pants and a fleece and vest. It was still quite dark. While I waited, I gathered rocks from the beach. This particular beach, to me, looked like an old river bed, as all of the rocks were a similar size. They were also egg-shaped and perfectly smooth. The rocks were mostly gray limestone, but there were other rocks that were brown, and still others that were bright white. I was gathering several of each color. I also selected some cool, bleached driftwood pieces from the beach. These would be used in a household decoration of some sort. Walking up and down that beach, at that hour, I felt like the only person in the world. I did not see or hear another soul.
Soon, the sky started to change many colors - purples, pinks, oranges - and soon after that, the sun peaked over the ocean horizon. A few minutes later, it was all over and the sun had fully emerged from the water. Satisfied, I crawled back into the tent for a long nap.
Rus woke me up a few hours later. He had already cleaned the pots from the night before and talked to someone who said we should not have built a fire. He was boiling water for tea. I cut up an orange and scrounged around for other breakfast snacks. I was feeling a little lousy from the wine and a poor night of sleep, and the hot tea tasted great.
Alas, all good things must end, so we packed up our stuff and loaded it into the car. We found a cafe with a nice back patio and ordered nice breakfasts and coffees. We were being stalked by the many little birds living in the surrounding trees; these little creatures were surely kept well-fed from the cafe’s patrons. Once breakfast was over, we filled up the gas tank and started back to Christchurch.
We stopped at another campsite to check it out as another option for a future trip, crawled on some ocean rocks, and took in the salty ocean breeze. The seas were much calmer today. Once back in the car, we looked out across the ocean, and what did we see? One of the fishing yachts we were on the day before - surrounded by at least 50 dolphins! They were beautiful even all the way from the road. We vowed to come back and try to swim with the dolphins again.
Eventually, near Cheviot, we had the option to take the “Scenic Route” home, so we took a road to a place called Gore Bay, which is a tiny, residential area with cute cottages nestled into the tree-covered hills. We parked the car and walked down a steep make-shift staircase to the beach below. To the south, another huge cliff dropped straight down to the ocean. The water was blue and clear and cold. There were several other people walking the beach and some even set up a picnic. It was after noon, and it was going to be another awesome day. I wished we could stay longer, but we had to get back.
The rest of the scenic route took us to the top of the mountains, where it was colder and wetter. Grazing pastures (and their inhabitants) dominated this area, and we actually saw houses from time to time. Eventually, we wound our way through to the main road and made it back to Christchurch by mid-afternoon. We quickly unpacked the car, and Rus returned it shortly thereafter while I put things away.
I thought Queenstown was stunning, but Kaikoura is more my style. I love the beach, and though tourism is a huge part of its economy, it does not feel nearly as “touristy” as Queenstown does. The close-by Alps as the beach’s backdrop make the scenery in Kaikoura even more dramatic. Like most of New Zealand, the area as a whole is relatively undeveloped. There are no multi-million dollar beach houses covering its pristine coast, just the occasional 7m by 7m bach. No high rises. All local businesses - with all of the eclectism and charm that comes with them. I cannot wait to go back.
I would definitey live there.